bunny BISOUS

John McCracken | "Song" at David Zwirner

John McCracken “Song”, 2008 [MCCJO0303] 

polyester resin, fiberglass and plywood 

overall dimensions: 96 x 124 x 13 ½ in. / each: 96 x 4 ½ x 3 in. 

at David Zwirner Gallery, 525 West 19th St. NYC

The tonal array of resinous reds that comprise the slender planks in John McCracken’s “Song” – sangria, “true” red, vamp, scarlet, Venetian red, carnelian, mulberry, and maroon [left to right] – evokes a practically uninhibited, childlike play with Pantone chips: a revelry that further expounds itself in the precarious lean of the plywood forms against the stark exhibition walls. The eight neighboring staves’ slight fluctuation thwarts any possible tedium and is just perceptible enough to supplicate said inner-child to test the waters and prod the upended boards just so as to properly render (an admittedly fulfilling) domino effect. 

The cantilevered shadows that emanate intrinsically across the interior Zwirner confines (owing to the gallery’s treasured skylight) render a remarkably surfboard-like silhouette that fittingly expounds on McCracken’s mythic Californian heritage and further accentuates the fiberglass-atop-plywood technique’s indelible luster. His fastidious workmanship – not unlike the handiwork one painstakingly applies to create a surfboard’s distinctly glossy patina – reveals itself most readily in the veiny grain of the tanned maroon panel [far right]: a beam that truly typifies a beach culture on account of the (indubitably art sceney) crane fly fittingly at roost atop the textured maroon “longboard”. 

The exhibition room’s inorganic spotlights glaringly reflect upon each rectangular statuette in such a manner so as to recall the fabled headlights one encounters at an unmistakably SoCal, Googie-tinged IN-N-OUT Burger in the witching (no doubt ravenous) hour. McCracken profoundly explores this seemingly superficial California car culture by means of his quintessential T-Birdesque sheen; one that goads onlookers into a rumination of sorts: wherein a spectator observes their own mien contemplating their idiosyncratic countenance and ergo deciphers their singular message in McCracken’s allegorical minimalism.

Cutiepie Alert! The Next Fashion Generation Is Abound in Paris

Following mommy's fashion footsteps après Véronique Leroy...

... and taking a shaded view on Iekeliene at Bruno Pieters:

Claudia (age four) and Jessica (age six) sharing front row with Grandma Menkes...

... and the mini fashion maven making a quick dash after Gareth Pugh:

Be sure to sneak a peak at the most influential stylemakers (including John Galliano, Anna Wintour, Nicolas Ghesquière, Sonia Rykiel, Olivier Theyskens – donning the Suzy hairdo no less, Christian Lacroix, Alber Elbaz, Franca Sozzani, Donatella Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Sarah Lerfel, Marc Jacobs, Adrian Joffe, and Alexander McQueen) eloquently pay tribute to Madame Menkes in honor of her 20th anniversary at the International Herald Tribune: Suzy at 20!

bB jf

Gareth Pugh Deserves a Sonnet

If Karlie, Kamila, Lily, Jourdan, Olga, and Magdalena emerged from a UFO... in Stratford-upon-Avon... circa 1603... it may have looked something like WonderBrit Gareth Pugh's Parisian début (made possible with the prize wherewithal garnered from winning the illustrous ANDAM award for new talent). 

Before the admittedly lackluster Kris van Assche presentation, I pressed Diane Pernet (fresh from a pre-Pugh preview) about the purported prêt-à-portability of Gareth's new collection, as divulged in Friday's WWD interview. She promised it was still thoroughly "Pugh" (think mind-blowingly moody, stirringly sculptural) without the slightest absence of his signature hair-raising drama. 

Nevertheless in propria prosona the collection marked a progressive career maturation and presented itself as assiduously wearable: relatively speaking, of course! Katie Shillingford's brill styling alloted for – with a simple nix of an Elizabethian collar here or a bit of defeathering there – a definite, more pragmatic proficiency and an assuredly more business-savvy concatenation... without losing an ounce of his genius artistry or deft craftsmanship.

While the keenly evolutionary collection may have not been a massive surprise – it was, however, massively spine-tingling – beholding the "Vogue Paris trifecta" (conducted by Carine) in uniform, less-than-riveting black FLATS was staggeringly unforeseen. Perhaps we really are in the midst of another Depression? Quelle horreur!

bunny BISOUS

xx jf

Something's Fishy: Prada Presentation Proves an Impediment-Ridden Regression

Miuccia Prada's Spring 2009 season had all the precursors of a massive success: a dazzling sporty, maharaja jewel-laden Resort 2009 showing; the creative juices that surely surged throughout this year – the fifteenth anniversary of PradaMilanoarte; the 2008-minted, now eponymous title as "The Patronness" partnered with all the prestige and pressure that such an epithet elicits (no word yet what The Kaiser thinks); and the well-deserved distinction of being crowned as one half of the art world's "royal couple" alongside husband Patrizio Bertelli. 

In fact Michael Kimmelman is so smitten that he even chronicled her as "a cross between a matron and a naughty schoolgirl... a notorious workaholic, she is courtly, almost flirtatious, likable, at least when she chooses to be, and serious" in March after said "Patroness" proclamation. No pressure.

via Jonathan S. Paul of The Moment Blog | New York Times

Ebullient off the fashion high note of Spring 2008's "Trembled Blossoms" sell-out 'trippy faerie' accessories in stunning succession with Fall 2009's "Fallen Shadows" highly-covetable lace, Miuccia Prada faced the international press today with an 'organical' stripped-down answer to our frightening fiscal times. 

While there are undoubtedly still pieces to ogle (the topsy turvy fetishy heels, the bemusedly brothely bags, and the lustrously flaxen robes de la saison) this Spring 2009 presentation was admittedly a madhat mid-decade regression for Miuccia – and not in her wonted, endearing sort of way. 

... And that's coming from perhaps the most diehard of Prada devotees! 

Meanwhile on the fresh face front: sixteen-year-old Groningen, Netherlands native Ymre Stiekema opened the school of oiled-up models that tumbled their way atop a slippery runway aptly festooned with a school of fish. 

Industry insiders are abuzz over the Prada team's puzzling directional one-eighty of opening with an uncharacteristically classic, decidedly "unawkward" beauty and exactly how that will precipitate in their sweeping post-Sasha Pivovarova vision. 

Ymre – already boasting a Steven Meisel-lensed Prada Linea Rossa Fall 2009 campaign under her trench – has a Prada exclusive this season and will likely also walk (let's leave it to the necklines to plunge this time, hm?) at Miu Miu next week in Paris. 

Fellow sweet sixteener Sigrid Agren of Martinique, France managed to gracefully close the calamitous show (hallelujah!). While the blonde hair blue-eyed beaut may not have nabbed the prized Prada exclusive, Sigrid's future bodes well considering her professional contact list comprised  entirely of Spring 2009 clients – including, but not limited to: Calvin Klein, Donna Karen, doo.Ri, Gap, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Ports 1961, Rad Hourani, Ralph Lauren, Rodarte, and Y-3. 

A nonpareil potpourri indeed considering that this is only Sigrid's initiatory season! Plus not having to deal with the possibility of "wobbling under contract" may mitigate some pressure off Sigrid's peds during her Miu Miu debut! 

Hopefully Prada's Parisian escapade will go over more swimmingly... or rather, less? 

bB

Keira's Got a Brand Old Bag

Bunny obsesh! Keira Knightley has been seen all about Gotham donning a very Annie Hall (bygone season) rust Prada messenger sack. 

While her beloved bag may no longer be on the market, to procure a similar vintagey accountement try the Marc Jacobs flower shoulder bag, Prada nappa ruffled tote, or Tila March papillion shoulder bag on for size. For my fellow ethical vegans -- try scooping up Stella's take on the newsboy rucksack for an akin 70's Barnard vibe. 

Fancy her black-tipped Chanel ballerinas [at right]? Scope them out (among racks and racks of serious fashion schmashion fabuloulosity from Mr. Mickey, Charlotte Ronson, Peter Davis, Emma Snowdon-Jones, Star von Bunny, and me -- erm, Julia Frakes) tomorrow at the first annual Celebrity Charity Sidewalk Sale at Screaming Mimi's!

All proceeds go to charity : water, Scott Harrison's lifesaving non-profit foundation bringing clean and sanitary drinking water to people in developing nations. 

Rochas, J. Mendel, Max Mara, Chanel, Mickey's flossy flossy sparklyhood... there's really no excuse not to make a cameo for the cause (credit card in-hand)!

See you there!

bunny BISOUS

ox jules

PS: It's common knowledge that Keira is not only strikingly alluring but also brilliantly perspicacious; nonetheless her appearance on Charlie Rose (in a 3.1 Phillip Lim blue asymmetrical fan dress and Wren contrast-lined blazer) truly set it in stone. Enjoy!

Olga Doesn't Do Aspartame

Spotted: Olga Sherer daintily sipping a Pepsi on Mulberry Street between Kenmare & Spring après Rad Hourani S/S 2009. And it wasn't diet. 

backstage last season with Fashion TV First Face Talks

bB

Fashion Week S/S '09, Behind the Scenes Part 2: Simona's Birthday at Pure Food & Wine

Last night Mr. Mickey and I event-hopped for Paper to cover the Vogue/IMG Model.Live event at Gemma in the Bowery Hotel, the Hermès/Josef Albers exhibit fêting their scarf collaboration at the Madison Avenue flagship, and the Cole Haan/Paper party downtown at The Box with an outrageous performance by The Citizens' Band toasting to Cole Haan's 80th Anniversary and reintroduction of their signature penny loafers featuring Bing Bang's Anna Sheffield iconic "penny" jewelry.

Just before the mayhem that is NYC fashion week, my dear friend (and fellow raw vegan) Simona McIntyre celebrated her 19th birthday with an intimate dinner of close friends at the crème de la crème (well, you know) of haute raw food dining, Pure Food & Wine. 

Simona rocks the Marni / Siri Tollerød dons the Ferré

your bunny hops in her favorite F/W Alexander Wang "boyfriend" blazer and vegan Marc tote

Kate Boch, Edythe Hughes, Danielle Hamm, Simona, Georgia Frost, and the cool cats at Marilyn

Kate, Edythe, and Danielle

What a pleasure to sit next to the lovley Siri and ascertain her unique perspective on the industry!

Georgia Frost!

two bunnies and a birdie

On the docket for today? Why my first day of school! 

Then I'll be zipping uptown to the office to meet Mickey and then off to:

Barneys for the launch of Andre 3000's Benjamin Bixby, the Erin Wasson X RVCA event downtown, Sue Stemp's Spring 2009 presentation, the Christie's party with Chloë Sevigny & Agyness Deyn, the FIT Opening, Christie's dinner at Indochine, and finally Chiara Clemente's birthday party at the Beatrice. 

... then back to my cat where I belong!

bunny BISOUS

xx Jules

PS: The industry is absolutely smitten with Simona's mature "new look" accentuated by her blonder, shorter new 'do! Check out these radiant, ethereal, positively angelic new polaroids snapped by Kwok to be sent over to Europe: 

courtesy Blonde over Blue

... breathtaking, right?